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It’s not a sin to be a tourist. And yet on all of my trips abroad I find myself obsessed with going undetected as a foreigner. I’ve never succeeded, but I was determined to change all that during my recent trip to the City of Canals. Venetians are known for their disdain of backpacking daytrippers and obvious tourists. I stayed 15 days in hopes of figuring out the dos and don’ts of passing for a local. Here are some basic rules: Be surly. To fit in, act mildly irritable, but be prepared to relent. Polite travelers always have a “Scusi” (excuse me) at the ready, which is sure to win over any Venetian. Don’t wait in line to get into St. Mark’s Basilica. Venetians know the right times to visit this imposing landmark. Dating back to the 11th century, this church reflects the power of the Serenissima Republic, when Venetian and Greek cultures formed a unique mix. Locals occasionally visit the Square for events such as the last day of Carnival (the only day of these festivities that they celebrate). They also come for mass on Sundays before their trip to the trattoria. But they never wait in line, which can take anywhere from 30 minutes to four hours. Don’t have a Bellini at Harry’s Bar. A Venetian once told me that locals treat themselves to this cocktail of prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) with white peach juice and a plate of carpaccio just once a year, if that often. This bar, founded by Cipriani, was a favorite of Hemingway’s. Have an Aperol or Bitters Spritz every day after work. Do this religiously. This mix of prosecco and Aperol or Campari bitters and a slice of lemon or orange is a quintessentially Venetian refreshment. Sunbathe in the Giardini. Located in the eastern Castello district at the entrance to the Biennale pavilions, these peaceful public gardens welcome artists from 40 countries at the International Art Exhibition every other year. Locals gather much more often to read, picnic and catch some rays. Don’t climb the Campanile. Locals wanting to get a glimpse of Venice from above go to San Giorgio Maggiore, which is cheaper, not nearly as crowded and offers a better view. Celebrate Redentore. This festival, held the third weekend in July, is a highlight of Venetian life. It commemorates the end of the plague that wiped out a third of the population by 1576, among them the painter Tiziano. Fireworks light the skies, and a floating bridge – originally made of gondolas – crosses the canal from Dorsoduro to the Redentore Church in Giudecca. Traditionally, the Doge and his entourage would cross the bridge of boats to the church in order to give thanks every year. |
