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Another cultural legacy comes from the Jesuit missions that evangelized the area hundreds of years ago. The San Ignacio Mission features the most important museum of sacred art in Mexico, with 18th-century paintings collected from all the missions in the state. Nearby, a Tarahumaran family preserves the traditional lifestyle in a cave dwelling. Visitors – who come to admire (and purchase) their valuable textiles and learn about the Tarahumaran way of life – should leave a gratuity for the floral wreaths with which the family commemorates their dead at the local cemetery. Ghosts, Gold and… Cheese? Located 30 minutes from San Ignacio is the Cusárare Mission. Legend has it that the army of the revolutionary Pancho Villa left a number of hidden treasures here. The locals believe the story and claim that you must dig wherever a ghost appears: a piece of gold or silver could be your reward. Authenticity of this story aside, the area is extremely rich in minerals. Last year saw the discovery of the Ocampo gold mine, one of the richest in the world. Descending more than 6,500 feet into the canyons, you’ll encounter the mining town of Batopilas, where the climate becomes tropical. Looking down from the precipice, you can see the highway snake along, disappearing and re-appearing as many as eight times. Did you just see the Roadrunner zip around the corner, with a stick of Acme dynamite in his beak? Warner Brother’s cartoon character may not appear, but you’ll have ample chance to see the real feathered version. Strikingly, the central square of Batopilas is not laid out in relation to the church or market – as it would be in almost any other town in Mexico – because the plaza was built by U.S. mining magnate Alexander Shepherd, circa 1880. A blend of cultures and ethnicities is evident not just in the city planning but in the residents of the town: don’t be surprised to see locals with fair hair, blue eyes and the dark skin of the Tarahumarans. The Jesuit mission of Satevó existed before Batopilas and remains preserved as one of the most beautiful building in the entire sierra. Divisadero offers the best place to appreciate the magnitude of the Copper Canyon. Stake out a choice view and camp along the canyon or spend a night of luxury at the Hotel Mansión Tarahumara, with its medieval castle décor, a dining room with wooden tables that seat 12, coats of arms, exquisite sotol (a liquor even stronger than tequila) and a guitarist who sings corridos (songs from the Mexican revolution). Another lodging alternative is the Hotel Mirador, named by Conde Nast and Travel & Leisure magazines as one of the hotels with the best views in the world. Roughly 100 yards below this hotel, you’ll find the Cueva del Chino, named for the Asian railroad worker who died mysteriously inside it. Today, the cave is home to 105-year-old Andrés Moreno, along with 15 of his descendents. Another worthwhile stop is the Mennonite community of Cuauhtémoc. The Mennonites are descendents of the original group of Protestants led by pastor Menno Simonis who fled religious and political persecution in the 18th century, making their way from Holland through Prussia, Germany, Russia, Canada and, finally, Mexico. This community is very isolated from the local culture (less than five percent of its population speak Spanish; their main language is German), but the Mennonites are known throughout Mexico for their exquisite cheeses. The three biggest cheese-making establishments in Chihuahua are run by Mennonites and produce 60 tons of cheese per day.• >> Where to stay, Tour Operators, The Essentials LAN flights: To Mexico City every day from Santiago. From there, a connecting flight to Chihuahua is available. |
