Colombia’s Caribbean Gem
The archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina greets you with a multihued sea, palm trees and warm smiles.
Text: mónica cuevas urízar
“These islands are God’s tribute to pleasure,” reads the sign in a reggae bar tucked among guava, totumo and palm trees in the La Laguna sector of San Andrés Island.
And there’s no evidence to the contrary. The archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina in the Colombian Caribbean offers a taste of paradise complete with the aroma of mangoes, the caress of warm breezes and the captivating presence of smiling, friendly people. UNESCO declared the archipelago a World Biosphere Reserve named “Seaflower” in recognition of its importance as one of the six keys to the health of the planet. Indeed, the archipelago is home to one of the largest coral reefs in the western hemisphere, immense forests of seaweed, mangrove swamps, pristine beaches, tropical rainforests and a sea of seven colors that would leave even Neptune speechless.
Two very different legacies remain from the archipelago’s colonial past: the official languages are English and Spanish (though one mostly hears native Creole) and a variety of Christian religions coexist in a fervently devout, mainly Baptist community. During a tornado watch, I was assured several times that, “We don’t have hurricanes because we pray a lot.” Regardless of their religious persuasion, visitors agree that this archipelago is the jewel of the Colombian Caribbean, offering every imaginable option for enjoying the natural surroundings and interacting with the local community.
Free Port, Shoppers Heaven
Don’t worry if you arrive on San Andrés with nothing more than the clothes on your back. In this free port, the word ’tax’ has been expunged from the local lexicon. The best bargains can be found in perfume, cosmetics, liquor and electronic equipment, but you’ll find everything you might need during your stay: cameras, snorkeling and scuba-diving equipment, clothing, bathing suits, a map and a good pair of sandals to accompany you on your journey.
Back on the Island
 Most people use motorcycles to get around San Andrés, but those more comfortable on four wheels can rent a golf cart. Head down Avenida Circunvalar and you will pass the Casa Museo Isleña, with exhibits on the architecture and furnishings of San Andrés homes from the past. A little further on, you’ll see a sign for the Cueva de Morgan, a coral cave shrouded in mystery and rumored to be the hiding place for the treasure of pirate Henry Morgan.
On the island’s southern tip is an opening in the ground known as the Hoyo Soplador, a blowhole that spouts water when the tide and wind conditions are right. The route continues through the town of San Luis, which features beaches, typical homes and coconut groves. In the center, you’ll find San Andrés Bay and the warm sands of Sprat Bight. The northern point of the island is a must-see, and the perfect end to the tour is the Cooperativa de Pescadores (Fisherman’s Cooperative), a simple corner restaurant where “fresh from the sea” is the absolute truth. Boats are unloaded on the beach, and the fish is brought straight to the kitchen to be weighed and priced. You choose the size of your catch, and the delicacy is fried and brought to the table in less than five minutes, accompanied by rice and patacones (fried plantain). Magnificent.
Trip to Johnny Key
 Johnny Key offers the ultimate in pleasure on San Andrés: soft sand, palm trees, a sea that changes colors and a handful of small wooden stands where you can savor cebiche, crab claws or fried fish and finish off with coconut or pineapple pie. But the decadently gorgeous surroundings really just tempt you to sprawl out on the sand, sipping a Piña Colada or Coco Loco (served in the coconut shell). Chill out on a chaise lounge (available for rent along with beach umbrellas), take a dip in the ocean, enjoy a ride in a banana boat or stroll around the key to admire the rocky beaches further back.
You can reach Johnny Key by boat. A non-stop trip from San Andrés takes about 15 minutes, or you can stop in Acuario and Haynes Key, nearby islets that are choice spots for snorkeling (caretear)or riding in a glass-bottom boat to spy on the marine life of the ocean floor.
The Deep Blue Sea
 Don’t miss out on the opportunity to take a mini-course in scuba diving that includes at least one dive, though I’m sure that it won’t be enough. I explored the depths with Henry Palacios, a certified instructor who spent an hour teaching me the mysteries of the equipment, sign language for communicating underwater, how to use my head as a rudder and some atavistic tricks for depressurizing my ears.
The next step is the deep blue sea. No fear. Once you get used to breathing through the mouthpiece, you’ll take to diving like a fish to water. Welcome to a parallel world of overwhelming perfection: the silence, the weightlessness, the bluest blues and yellowest yellows. Angelfish dazzle with their colors, and sea skates drift by slowly, their tails sweeping behind them. Sea urchins wiggle their spines, while the enormous brain coral rises up before you. This dreamlike experience can be immortalized if you (or your instructor) have an underwater camera. Absolutely unbeatable!
Water Sports Ahoy!
Do the words kite surf, Jet Ski, sunfish and zodiac sound like gibberish to you? Stop in at Chamey’s Náutica on the beach at San Luis and learn what water sports are all about. You can take a class or rent gear for any sport mentioned above as well as wind surf, catamaran and water ski. Chamey, the owner, is a true amphibian, a lover of the sea and a great teacher. You can also ride on a water motorcycle to feed and swim with the sea skates that congregate around Acuario and Haynes Key in the afternoons. You might even come face to face with a small, friendly shark if you’re lucky.
A Massage on the Beach
 If the shark thing stresses you out a little, head straight for Shisty Esperanza, who works on the beach near the Cocoplum Hotel. Shisty is a large woman with cascading hair, painted eyebrows and a perennial smile. Hop on her massage table – discreetly placed among the palm trees, with a view of the ocean – and pay mind to Shisty. “No negative thoughts, no heartbreak, no phone bill, no boss… Focus only on the positive,” is her only request as she brings out an arsenal of mysterious jars that give forth aromas of almonds, coconuts, roses – “for love,” she explains – sesame and mango. She prepares these oils herself and uses them in the ritual of your choice: relaxation massage, lymphatic drainage, exfoliation, fruit therapy or hot rock massage. She also offers special services for brides that include a bath by moonlight, rose petals and hydrating oils.
La Loma
To get away from the sea for a bit, rent a cart and tour La Loma, which offers a glimpse into the local lifestyle: houses with open doors, children eating mangoes on the terrace, clothing drying in the breeze and men playing dominoes on the sidewalk.
You will pass by several churches – there are 32 on this ten-square-mile island – including the First Baptist Church. Founded in 1844, the church is an eye-catcher, thanks to its red roof and white walls made of Alabama pine. If you are here on a Sunday, you’ll see that the locals take their devotion quite seriously. Sunday processions feature ladies in hats with their hair and nails done for the occasion, gentlemen in ties and little girls in diaphanous dresses.
Divine Providence
There’s enough material here for a separate article. Linked by the colorful Malecón de los Enamorados, the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina are 25 minutes by plane from San Andrés. This rugged, sparsely populated region (pop. 6,000) will make you feel like you’re in a scene from Blue Lagoon, but with everything you want in abundance. As it says on a sign at the entrance to the home of Betico (a well-known boat guide), “God provides.” If you’re hungry, mangoes and coconuts fall from the trees or you can go fishing. And you’ll always find a friendly local who has time to talk.
It is the ideal place for R-E-S-T and for enjoying a paradisiacal landscape. Rent a boat and tour the island, passing through Cabeza de Morgan, Cayo Cangrejo (a privileged islet for snorkeling), mango groves, Manzanillo beach (where you can get good cebiche at Roland Bar) and South West Bay, a white sand beach where you can have a Mojito and get free advice at Richard Bar.
You can also climb the Peak, a nature preserve with the best-preserved forests in the Caribbean. There is horseback riding on the beach, island-style eco-fishing, scuba diving (day or night, but for certified divers only) and kayaking in the mango groves, all with the peace and ecological balance that the islanders mean to preserve at any cost.
Stay for a few nights – anything less would be a sin.
LAN Flights: To Bogotá daily from Lima and Santiago, Chile.
Where to Stay
Hotel Casablanca: With a choice location next to the beaches of Sprat Bight and convenient to the shops, this hotel offers very comfortable rooms and cabins, a wonderful terrace with pool and bar, and service that will make you feel like royalty.
Av. Costa Rica No 1-40, San Andrés
Tel. 57-8-512-4115
www.hotelcasablanca.net
Hotel Cocoplum: Simple, with very good home-style cooking and a phenomenal beach complete with hammocks and palm trees. The perfect place for leaving the world behind.
Vía a San Luis No 43-39, San Andrés
Tel. 57-8-513-2121
www.cocoplumhotel.com
Hotel Sol Caribe Providencia: Pleasant, quiet and located so close to the water that the crabs tapped on my window each morning.
Sector Agua Dulce, Providencia
Tel. 57-8-514-8104
www.solarhoteles.com
Hotel Sirius: Offers alternative therapies.
Bahía Sur Oeste, Providencia
Tel. 57-8-514-8213
www.siriushotel.net
Where to Eat
La Regatta: Enjoy lobster, fish, crab and other seafood right on the water. Warm nautical motif.
Av. Newball s/n, San Andrés
Tel. 57-8-512-0437
Casablanca: Simply delicious seafood stew, shrimp or shellfish cebiche and tropical-style or curried pargo.
Av. Costa Rica 1-40, San Andrés
Gourmet Shop: Pair your wine (the house specialty) with sandwiches, cheese plates and entrees. Try the steak tips with chocolate and balsamic vinegar sauce.
Avda. Atlántico Diag. 2a No 2-77, San Andrés
Tel. 57-2-512-9843
Miss Celia O’Neill: One hundred percent island cooking that ranges from the classic rondón to shellfish stew and crab soup.
Av. Colombia & Colón Raizal, frente al / across from Club Náutico, San Andrés
Tel. cel. 57-31-6690-0074
Where to Scuba Dive
Coral Reef San Andrés
(Henry Palacios)
Tel. cel. 57-31-6247-6421
coralreefsanandres@hotmail.com
San Andrés Divers
Av. Circunvalar km 8,5
Tel. 57-8-513-0347 / 31-0373-0209
www.sanandresdivers.com
Felipe Diving
Cabañas El Recreo, sector Agua Dulce, Providencia
Tel. 57-8-514-8775
www.felipediving.com
Where to Party
Nautilus Bar: Small, fun, with good salsa, merengue and reggae music. Tables available at the water’s edge.
Av. Colombia across from Ponchos, San Andrés
Tel. 57-8-512-4580
Kela’s:. A tiny reggae spot on the beach made of palm fronds and bamboo with a dance floor.
Sound Bay, on the road to San Luis, across from the hotel Decameron San Luis, San Andrés
Yate Fiesta: A packed, noisy trip around San Andrés Bay on a yacht complete with tropical music, a bar and dancers. The boat is hired out by tourism agencies and sets sail at sunset or in the late evening.
Roland Bar: Not to be missed. Try the Roland Espacial, an unfathomable blend of liquors served in a coconut shell. Open 24 hours a day.
Casa Baja, Playa Manzanillo, Providencia
Tel. 57-8-514-8417
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