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Peruvian Flavor in Buenos AiresThe Peruvian cuisine boom is in full swing in the capital of Argentina. It’s a matter of taste.text Ernesto Oldenburg
It’s no wonder that Buenos Aires has become the barometer by which the cosmopolitan passion for Peruvian fare is measured. After all, these two sibling nations took their first steps together well over five centuries ago. The current boom of Peruvian cuisine in this port city has been stewing for a decade, thanks to the recent wave of Peruvian inmigration to Argentina’s capital. These newcomers brought with them the culture and flavors of their homeland, now showcased in tiny restaurants throughout the city, some 50 establishments that have gradually transcended the boundaries of their community. Everyone remembers Status (1993) as the first restaurant to serve Peruvian fare in downtown Buenos Aires, just steps away from the National Congress. Later, near Chinatown, Contigo Perú (1997) opened its doors. In the renowned neighborhood of Abasto, the ghost of Gardel has watched over a seemingly endless array of modest Peruvian restaurants. If Mamani offers traditional charm in generous portions, Mochica – the latest newcomer to the area, having opened this year – is promoting a homey style in a neighborhood that is already being called the “Nueva Lima del Plata.” Lastly, Belgrano is home to the renovated Primavera Trujillana (2004), perfect for an informal get-together to enjoy delectable cuisine. This alternative culinary circuit, which has baptized a number of novice palates, currently coexists with a new group of first-rate restaurants that have conquered the neighborhood of Palermo Viejo, the epicenter of the Buenos Aires scene.
The algorrobina semifreddo, with pisco and dulce de cayote, is as sweet as a Peruvian waltz. Osaka (2005) was the first to fly the flag of Peruvian-Japanese fusion in Buenos Aires, its refined Nikkei cuisine captivating the more sophisticated diners (who were already bored with the local sushi platters). Founded in Lima, and boasting a location in Santiago, Chile, the Osaka in Buenos Aires – with its Asian-accented décor – is a required stop on the city’s nightlife circuit. Executive chef and founding partner Daniel Delgado Jitsuya finds inspiration in his heritage (a Japanese mother and other family in Peru), presenting the delicacies of the Pacific with the seasonings of his homeland. The fish anticucho with cilantro sauce dazzles, served with salt-baked grouper. Libélula (2005) opened at the same time, but in quite a different tone: its only exposure was the windowed kitchen of the first location, which began as a private restaurant. In a new spot and now open to the general public, the cuisine of Libélula trades in the same kind of signature Peruvian-Japanese fusion, with the stamp of Lima-native Coco Lozano, who is aided at the bar by Sayuri Sakugawa and Fabián Yafuso. The piqueo de puerto (quinoa-breaded prawn, gyozas, salmon cebiche served over an oyster, and mussels a la chalaca) showcases the wonders of this blend of culinary heritages.
But it’s at Sipan, Cocina Peruana y Pisco Bar where José Castro Mendivil has gained renown for himself and Peruvian cuisine in general. Deeply involved with the development of Osaka, the new restaurant from this Lima native (with a rock-solid education and an adventurer’s profile) was recently expanded and is renowned as the best Peruvian restaurant in Buenos Aires. At least until the guru of Peruvian cuisine, Gastón Acurio (who Mendivil greatly admires), opens his Astrid y Gastón (coming soon to Lafinur 3222).
LAN Flights: To Buenos Aires every day from Lima, Miami and Santiago (Chile), six times a week from Sao Paulo and once a week from Punta Cana. Buenos Aires Contigo Perú Mamani Mochica Primavera Trujillana Zadvarie Doc Restaurat Osaka Libélula Ceviche Bardot Loisir Sipan Cocina Peruana & Pisco Bar
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Here, you’ll find Zadvarie Doc Restaurant (2003), a small, modern and minimalist establishment – luminous by day, intimate by night – run by Neco Kvasina (the impetus behind the project), and his partner Hugo Zeballos Varas, trained in Argentina by renowned chef Dolli Irigoyen. They serve a Peruvian-inspired cuisine in which the chef’s signature takes precedence over tradition. The anticuchos (beef heart brochettes marinated in chili pepper and beer, with sautéed potatoes and huacatay or “black mint”) will make you think you are on a balcony in the Lima neighborhood of Barranco. The house speciality is the filet de mero a lo macho, a filet of grouper with a sauce made of two types of chili pepper, tomato and onion, served with French fries and rice. The desserts are prepared just as exquisitely. 
Ceviche (2007) began serving its eponymous dish in a modern and spacious establishment, created by culinary impresario Jorge Szwarcberg, who also owns Dashi, a first-rate Japanese restaurant. Roberto Nishida runs the kitchen with an open cebichería and a Nikkei bar. The menu offers a tour of classics from criolla (native), norteña (northern) and chifa (Chinese-influenced) cuisine. Friendly waiters offer newcomers suggestions as to the best combinations of Peruvian dishes and Argentinean wines. 
Renowned chef Marco Spinoza impressed during his beginnings at the Peruvian Embassy in Argentina. Today, he serves signature Peruvian cuisine at Bardot loisir, in collaboration with partner Edmundo Iriart, a devotee of Pacific flavors. Spinoza offers incomparable miniatures, which provide ideal accompaniment to the pisco cocktails of his young compatriot Paul Cruzatt.
The menu at Sipan (with Nikkei, cebiche, chifa and criolla offerings) revives the history of Peru at the modern table of this contemporary establishment. Located in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires, it also features the city’s first pisco bar, next to (but separate from) the lounge, which serves as a reception area and the entrance to the dining hall. Mendivil is quite happy, and with good reason: this November 26 and 27, he welcomes a special guest – Jorge “Coque” Ossio Giulffo, one of the top five chefs in Peru. Make reservations and get ready to be astonished. See for yourself how Peruvian cuisine continues its ascending trajectory in Buenos Aires, with more culinary projects soon to open. In addition to the aforementioned Astrid y Gastón, plans include Rafael, from Rafael Osterling, La Gloria, from Oscar Velarde, and La Carreta, under the watch of local chef Ezequiel Gallardo.
